Seoul Spring
3 weeks in Seoul, art, North Korean border, cafés, shopping, food, food and more food, and endless things to explore. Fan letter coming in hot!
This Seoul letter was almost impossible to write. Because, just as with love, words are not always enough. Because there’s so much to say, so many memories and an endless list of things I wanna tell you about. And how do you cut out precious places and memories, to make the letter consumable. I could also just have written the longest list, story and yapped from now and until next year, but you don’t want that and there’s also life to live.
So, I have tried my best to write some recommendations for you. There will also be another Seoul letter where I dig a bit deeper into the art scene, because that requires its very own attention.
Okay here goes..
Preparing for my Seoul trip was a process that ran over several months. First, deciding on a time of year, then a neighborhood to live in and then making sure I booked hotels and plane at the best possible time.
Spring. Myeong-dong. Transit in Germany both ways. Book beginning of December.
Ok check!
I should say that I have studied hangul, the language of Korea for some years and through that, I had a pretty good feeling about what two neighborhoods would fit my style the most and what I wanted to see - and I was excited to test out my language skills IRL. I tried to weave my language skills smoothly into the mix here to show off, but it didn’t appears so smooth though. Let me try again later.
Myeong-dong is at the center of seoul and by metro you can reach pretty much anywhere in Seoul in about 40min. It is also the location of Namsan mountain and the Seoul Tower, close to all the great palaces, walking distance to some of the most famous food markets and a mecca of experiences in general. I think it was a perfect place to stay for my first trip. Next time I might stay in Seongsu which is more of urban, pop-up, street culture vibe - a neighborhood I visited twice and that was super cool.
On my arrival day I learned a hard lesson - while chatGPT had been a good planning partner back home (and a good way-finder for me on other trips) its skills in locations and just general finding its was around, was as horrible as google maps on the moon. AKA not useful in any way. It resulted in me using about an hour to find my hotel, which was about 3 minutes away from the bus drop-off 🤦♀️
The limousine bus - Loving the look, but man oh man it was comfortable 😭
Three apps you absolutely need to download before you go
Honestly, don’s skip it. I know you think, “ok I’ll do it when I get there or when I need them”. But come on. You will need them, so just do it now.
Naver maps - Google nor Apple Maps shows locations correct inside Korea, so don’t even bother trying
Papago - Translations of food packaging and live translation with locals if you haven’t your hangul perfected yet
Subway - Map of the subway system, which is very useful when traveling on the metro. Which you will. Seoul is just too big for you to walk everywhere, even for a Copenhagen-constant-walking-type like myself.
Ok, trying to concentrate on keeping this tight. Let’s move on to my list of things to do.
My über favorites recommendations
Regardless if you have only a few days or several weeks in the city, then I would prioritise things from this list. There’s a bit of this and that, and it will also depends on your travel style.
Leeum museum (리움미술관)
This traditional and contemporary art museum was a favorites. The upstairs is traditional while an enormous underground space is dedicated for contemporary art. When I was there the French artist Pierre Huyghe had his Liminal exhibit there and it honestly blew me away. It still sits in my sole, especially the movie Human Mask was profound. Leeum is one of the most beautiful art spaces I have ever seen, and even just the building, how spaces are designed, in addition to the artwork is worth a visit.
Seongsu (성수동)
As mentioned I went to the Seongsu neighborhood twice while I was there. This is a really cool, urban and vivid place with tonnes of stuff to do. Close to the station you’ll find the Magpie and Tiger Teamroom, the most bougie tea place I have ever been to. The attentiveness to brewing the tea was superior and I ended up buying a reeeeally good Persimmons leaf tea and Mugworth tea that I still dream off, alas I have run out of my stash now.
But Seongsu is also the neighborhood of cafés, in fact I have never in my life seen such a high concentration of cafe´s. We are talking every other store was a new immersive cafe designed like it was part of a universe of its own. Nothing like the regular cafe’s you see in other places of the world.
Olive Young in Seongsu is also worth a visit, with, I think its biggest location, 5 floors and enough space that it doesn’t feel overcrowded. My suitcase weighed about 8 kg. more on my way home mainly because of Olive Young. And I am not even a beauty product fan per se, so that says something. Buy sunscreens, they are insanely good. Write in the comment if you want my recommendations for brands.
The vibe in Seoungsu is also just really vibrant, there are pop up shops everywhere - and they change all the time, so impossible to really plan for - there are street performers and event everywhere - and lots and lots of people out in the streets that make for a fun, exciting and lively yet not overcrowded vibe.
This red one as not from Seongsu, but a random store I visited near Leeum. In general there were lots of stores that looked like this or equally immersive in every neighborhood I visited…do you spot the little mouse there?
DDP museum (동대문디자인플라자 (DDP))
This spaceship looking futurist art space took several hours to really take in. The outside architecture and open space is an amazing hangout, and the inside is equally stunning. I saw a few exhibitions there, but common for most of them were that they were physical installation and experiences rather than traditional art exhibitions. Also a big recommendation to the museum shop which has designer souvenirs that are worth paying for instead of some ugly mug or fridge magnet. Who even has a magnetic fridge these days?
Namsan Tower (엔 서울타워)
The Namsan mountain in the middle of the city, which has the very iconic Namsan Tower, has also earned its place on this list. I put on my most comfortable shoes and took the stairs all the way to the top after an early dinner, as a nice little workout. It took about 40 minutes and quite a few stops to breathe and take pictures of the view. If you leave so that you are at the top in daylight you’ll have a beautiful view of the city. At the top of the mountain I took in the view, and then went on to take the elevator to the top of the tower, where there’s a full panorama view of the city. Beyond breathtaking. I had timed it so that it would turn dark while I was at the top and hence I got the view in daylight as well as night view, with tiny twinkling lights and the citys big city florescent lights. The hike down the mountain in the dark afterwards was much faster, about 20minutes, lit by small lanterns along the way. Very cosy.
DMZ The demilitarized zone (한반도/조선반도 비무장 지대)
On one of my last days I took a guided full day tour to the demilitarized zone between South and North Korea, where I visited an outlook post and saw in across the border to the North. This was a really special experience I don’t quite know how to explain properly. The demilitarized zone has several tunnels that the south have dug to find north tunnels. In one of them, a steep trip underground for 20 minutes of walk led to a one person repos, with a tiny window with several layers of glass, set in several concrete walls, and there I could peek into the north tunnel. Again the feeling of looking at it is impossible to describe. Just, if you go to Korea, make sure this is part of your trip. Unless you already live in a place close to a closed off border with your own tunnels. In that case, you’ll maybe find it trivial.
I don’t have any pictures I can show you of this part of my trip, because for the most it is not permitted to take pictures inside the zone. Maybe I did take some pictures, but I want absolutely no proof here that I did. Or didn’t.
Changdeokgung Palace (창덕궁) and The Secret Garden (창덕궁 비원)
Because I was in Seoul for three weeks I had plenty of time to visit all the 5 big palaces. If you have less time, then prioritise the Changdeokgung Palace which also holds the Secret Garden. I have never been much of a flower and trees type, but this garden was magical. The palaces are similar in style, so visiting just one is fine. And if you are a K-drame fan you will be mesmerized by the scene which makes you feel like you stepped into a periode drama yourself. Hell, rent and throw on a traditional hanbok as many other visitors do and live out that dream.
Also if you have a very bad sense of direction, then you can get a little lost at some of the palaces, so make sure to bring water, food for 14 days and a tent in case of emergency. I met a few others who were also lost and had panic written all over their faces - I told you to download Naver Map didn’t I? But I guess most normal people will be fine.
Secret garden
People wearing hanbok
If you are into architecture there were soooo many beautiful details I don’t know where to begin.
Cheonggyecheon (청계천)
I accidentally crossed the Cheonggyecheon stream several times, before I understood what it was. The stream is almost 10km long and stretches through the city. It was originally part of the sewerage system, turned freeway and today turned into an urban space with water, trees, singers performing at night, and just a general hang out place. Especially at night, parts of the stream is lit by colored lanterns and makes for a very romantic setting to sit or walk through.
Namsangol Honok village (남산골한옥마을)
On my way to DDP, on a very very hot day and with an overrated sense that I could walk there - I did, but I shouldn’t have - I stumbled across Namsangol Hanok Village. This is not the famous Hanok Village you’ll usually hear about, but all the much better, because I had it almost to myself. The small village of traditional hanoks, flowers and trees were like a little fairytale and transported me to another time and place.
One of the most magic things is how a sound can also transport you back to a certain other place or time and that brings me to the Seoul metro system.
Metro Magic (지하철)
It doesn’t have anything to do with magic, I just put that in there because Metro as the only word in the headline would be odd. And also because the metro does have a bit of magic to it. How so, you say? Sound. Before the metro arrives there’s a very cute little melody playing. I did consider putting in a sound bite of me trying to hum it, but I respect your ears more than so. This small melody made me smile every single time, and when I got home to Copenhagen I still heard it inside my head when the very non-musical Copenhagen metro arrived on my way to work, and that made work a little less …well you know!
So my point is, take the metro for the pretty melodies and because Seoul is too big to walk. And because you just might have a chat with a local grandmama in patchy Korean on a train ride somewhere. See how I brought that back 😉
After about 2 weeks I started feeling at home in Seoul. When I turned the corner from my street, when I sat at my local breakfast café, when I greeted the same convenience store employee working the late shift. The first time it happened I had to stop and let myself feel it. It’s a profound feeling having in a country far far away from your actual home, but I did form a close connection to this city, and I for sure see myself going back more than once more.
Banpo Bridge Moonlight Rainbow Fountain
Close to my hotel there were a few places where I had dinner on several occasion, one of which was Kyoja.
Kyoja (교자, which also mean mandu/dumplings)
I ate here first on my second day in Seoul. The line outside was 20000 meters long at least, I was dehydrated and had to leave the line to buy water and come back. But the 20000m long line moved fast, so after about 15 minutes I was in! I was sat at a table next to a family, because there are so many visitors that they don’t leave any seats open. In return you meet some nice people and get to have a chat with them for the 20 minutes you are there. The food arrives after 2 minutes max, super freshly made. I had the konggugsu at my first visit, which is a kold soybean soup with soba noodles. That was the best meal I have ever had. But the restaurant is also in the Michelin guide book. And I should mention that the food costs next to nothing, so accomplishing “best food ever” is impressive. I also had the Spice noodles at another visit which were the second best thing ever. This place is a big YES. The menu changes with seasons, so take notice of that.
One of many street performances I ran into
A sacred Buddhist temple, with a giant guld Buddha statue inside.
A traditional Bibimbap meal I still dream of
The Gangnam Style statue in Gangnam
Okay, before this turns into a book I think I will hold for now. Maybe there will be several other letters from Seoul - at least one about the art scene, and perhaps one about things I didn’t get to do, but that I have on my list for next time.
Yes, I think I’ll add them both soon too.
Last but not least, a few practical tips
Practical Stuff (실용 정보)
Transport from and to the airport
Book a limousine buss to take you from the airport to your hotel (or close to the hotel). Don’t take the train or a cab. The bus is super comfortable, you get to see the city and the Han River up close, and it is very inexpensive.
Internet
I got a E-sim card from Breeze with data for one month and it worked with no issues, was easy to set up and meant that I didn’t need to worry about saving Naver Map usage (I told you…!), and any other online essentials without limitations. I promise I am not sponsored by Naver 😊
Metro card
I bought a physical t-money card and filled it with cash in a CU (nice to C U) kiosk, which are everywhere. It can be used for both the metro, busses and to buy snacks with. Since I was there the T-money card is now also available on iPhone Wallet, so that’s worth researching a bit more. By you, not me.
Cash & card
I paid with my card almost everywhere, only a few places like at some markets, restaurants and at one museum I needed cash. Apple Pay does not work everywhere, so make sure you have other payments on your phone and a physical card if you have one. It is super expensive to withdraw cash in ATM’s, so bring some cash exchanged from home. I would recommend about 1000 DKK or around 160 USD per person for 2-3 weeks.
Vaccines
Check up on what vaccines are recommend for your country. For me I needed 3 different ones to be covered, but one could be avoided if you are not planning on running around in high grass and mud like me.
Anything I should add in the next Seoul letter?
Let me know in the comments 🐯
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